Wednesday, February 11, 2009

A few things I wanted to share that made me laugh...

An amusing map...



And one that made me a little homesick...(a tribute to Trader Joes filmed by Rainn Wilson)




And finally, an article about a very amusing and controversial art hoax, which deeply offended Bulgaria and forced Czech Republic to apologize...lighten up Europe! Laugh at yourself!!!



And the link to see the artwork...Check them out, and be sure the read the captions, they explain the images. The Holland one kills me! I also like the France.


http://www.guardian.co.uk/artanddesign/gallery/2009/jan/14/entropa-eu-art-hoax




And a video where you can see the parts moving...

Tuesday, February 10, 2009

P.S. - Kako se kaze "jungle rot" u Srpski?

P.S. – I just got home from work and wanted to add a note to today’s post…

Today was a good day! I found my job without problem, and started transcribing a series of short films for the Women in Black (so that the films can be subtitled in Serbian). The films themselves are called Women on the Frontline and each is a short documentary detailing the struggles of various women from communities across the globe. Today I transcribed one about the trafficking of women & girls in Nepal for prostitution in India – really fascinating – and one about honor killings in Turkey. I can’t wait to copy these films to bring back for use in the classroom!

Also in the course of my day I learned how to use my phone to text friends in the US, had a successful and pleasant grocery store experience, and saw three massively pregnant dogs (which may not be exciting for most people, but reminds me things could be worse! I have no idea why the massively pregnant, clearly uncomfortable stray dogs here arouse my pity, but they do. I feel doubly bad for them in the summer!)

But there is one less fortunate thing to report…how do you say “I have jungle rot between my toes and need anti-fungal cream” in Serbian? YUCK! I have no idea how this happened. I clean my feet, wear clean socks, and even let my feet sleep naked. But somehow I have something totally gross growing between my toes, Not very sexy, I know, but a fact of life here I guess, especially for us foreigners, as from all reports, I am not the only one here who is struggling with grotesque fungal issues. It makes me realize that people here are immensely attractive in spite of common struggles and that makes them even more attractive!!

One other thing to note…it has become clear to me that Serbian women (when 10 or more years older than you) act a lot like Italian mothers – nurturing, but sometimes too honest! My American colleague at WiB is struggling with this. The women at the organization are all very close and nurturing, which brings with it a comfort level that allows them to tell you what is wrong with you…so that you might fix it I assume. They are not shy to tell a young woman that she is chubby, or that she needs to wear more make-up, or even to offer to take her to the store to buy better cosmetics! Presumably they do not do this to be rude, but for the person who is being picked at, it is not a pleasant experience. Now, they are not yet close enough to me to start picking me apart, but I am sure it is only a matter of time before they do, and I am hoping for either the strength to endure it gracefully or the language ignorance to not understand them!

Finally, I will be most fortunate if I make it out of here without getting hit by a taxi or bus! The green “walk” sign is meaningless for the most part, and sometimes people even seem to speed-up at cross walks and even at stop signs. I used to think that the people I see on the streets here who are missing limbs were war victims. I now think it is entirely possible that they tried to cross the street!

I once met a guy in NYC who was visiting from Japan. I asked him what he found most surprising or difficult to adjust to in US culture. He told me that he found it overwhelming that American people all seem to act as if the rules were not created for them…and cited the way that people cross the street wherever and whenever they like (as opposed to waiting for the light in an orderly fashion) as evidence for this. As chaotic and unbound by rules as this place is, I often think of that Japanese guy, and wonder how he would manage here. I imagine that his brain might implode!

Another week of exciting adventures...

So, since last week’s post things have been moving rather quickly. The first few weeks moved really slowly as each day presented many new challenges. But, now that I have the little things down pat, and I have been working tons, the days since my last post have flown by and now I have been here nearly a month! So what has happened in the last week or so….

Well, on the more dull side, I have read many books relevant to the research project I am working on here, and have gotten some writing and thinking accomplished through several days of concentrated and diligent work. In other news…

I finished with my job selecting Serbian university students for the USAid fellowship. All-and-all it was an interesting process through which I learned a lot about Serbia through both the colleagues I worked with and the students we interviewed. While it has been challenging to meet Serbian friends who are interested in spending time with me socially – which I attribute to the fact that Belgrade has more in common with New York in that foreigners are viewed less as an exciting novelty and more as a part of the landscape to be looked at with disinterest and stepped over – I did meet a few cool Serbian women through this process that I hope to spend time with in the future.

In my most eventful and somewhat frustrating professional day this week I made my first solo venture to my university. My last trip to my office had been assisted by my American colleague with whom I share an office, and while without his guidance I likely would not have found it a second time, my first solo venture was a bit trying. I woke that day to the sun shining…a phenomenon I had thought was rarely possible in a Serbian winter, but which, to my delight, persisted for 5 days afterward – reminding all of us who had begun to get the grey winter blues that spring is around the corner!!

So with the glee of a sunny day coursing through my veins, I proceeded to the tram stop where I was to catch the tram #10 to my office. After a charming interaction with the woman at the kiosk from whom I bought my tram ticket, I boarded the tram with hopes of finding my school. Now in case I had not mentioned it, the public transport here is very thorough, but the trams look to be from the dawn of electricity! Rumbling down the tracks as if they will crumble at any moment, the trams are packed like a Bangladeshi bus, and the fact that I had my map in hand made me feel all the more conspicuously foreign – as if the curly hair, short stature and “curvy” figure (coupled with my flat shoes inspired by my last bloody tram experience) were not enough to announce the fact that I am not them. (An experience that, when coupled with the day at large, left me singing the Nirvana lyrics “I’m not like them, but I can pretend…)

I knew approximately where I was supposed to get off the tram, but the stops are not marked with signs, for the most part, and there are no announcements to tell riders at which stop they are arriving. So I thought the best thing to do was to get off the tram where it appeared most student-like riders were departing. Well…failed logic at best!

The stop where I exited looked a lot like the one I had alighted from last time, but 45 minutes of aimless wandering told me I was wrong! After walking in the wrong direction for about 25 minutes (uphill), I turned and walked the other way (also uphill…unclear how this is possible) when I finally got up the guts to ask someone, only to find out that I was right the first time. So I turn around and walk (again uphill…am I in the twilight zone…how can everything be uphill??) about 35 minutes and arrive at my school! RELIEF!!

But wait…not yet…I realize upon my arrival that the school itself is more like a maze and I wander up and down the stairs and the hallways, feeling oh so conspicuous, trying to find the office of my mentor for whom I am already 30 minutes late. I ask directions at the main office, only to be sent to the wrong office…twice! But all is well when I finally find her.

Arriving very late and very sweaty, (by now cursing the same sunshine I had reveled in just an hour before), she agrees to see me, and we chat about which courses I will be teaching when the semester finally begins. So it turns out I will be assisting in 2 critical media courses (one undergrad and one grad) and one Women’s Studies seminar – cool! But the start date is still to be determined…fine.

Upon leaving the faculty in the early afternoon, I begin the journey to my other job – a volunteer position with one of the organizations I will be researching – Women in Black, Belgrade. Armed with my trusty map, I take the tram to the center of town. Yet, the stone-age contraption does not make it to the town center, instead breaking down in the middle of a HUGE intersection – god knows where! After several minutes of the tram driver trying to get it started again in the midst of dozens of honking horns and angry shouts from the surrounding traffic, the doors of the tram suddenly open and everyone gets off the tram. The surrounding drivers, now irate, honk furiously as we exit the tram, as if we had thrown a mutiny on the tram and demanded the driver stop and let us all off in the middle of traffic!

I walk as if I know where I am going until I reach a small park with benches where I can sit and look at the map. I think I know vaguely where I am, and even though the street signs are in Cyrillic script (which appears to me something like various conglomerations of a backwards 3, a triangle, 3 hooks, a square and the letter B) and my map is in Latinic script, I think I can make my way. Again everything seems to be uphill, but after about an hour of searching for something that was something like 10 minutes walk had I had my bearings, I arrive at my destination – frustrated and more homesick than I had been since my arrival!

I walk up the stairs to the office and meet my contact person – an American graduate student working with the group named Jennifer. I had imagined that I would spend ½ hour talking with her about the organization and their expectations for my service. Yet, after an hour or so of excited and interesting conversation the group’s charismatic leader enters the room. She seems to remember me from last time, and invites me to have a meal with them, which I gratefully accept as I was starved! By the end of my afternoon there I was reinvigorated and excited to be here in Belgrade and especially excited to be working with them again!

I find my way home with no difficulty, thrilled to have had such a productive and exciting day and excited to get down to work with the organization.

On Friday – after finishing my USAid job and meeting American friends in the park to enjoy the sunny day and eat lunch - 2 guests arrived at my apartment. An American-Croatian guy (Vjeran) who I had known from previous work in the region (who now teaches at the University in Rijeka, Croatia), and his American girlfriend (Julie) who works in Prague. After a dinner at my flat, the three of us went to check out some of Belgrade’s nightlife – HOORAY! We went to a Rakia bar near my neighborhood which featured hundreds of kinds of local brandies. I sampled one from pears, and one from walnuts…both excellent!

The next day we went to a seminar on transitional justice featuring some really amazing scholars from the region and beyond. Upon my arrival I saw several representatives from Women in Black who I had met earlier that week, and was excited to see Jennifer again! The seminar itself was excellent. There were headphones with simultaneous translation so that you could hear the proceedings in Serbian, Albanian or English, which was immensely helpful. I also encountered a scholar originally from the US who is a close friend of my advisor from graduate school! (Small world!) By the time lunch came around, I was both excited by all that I had heard and was suddenly taken by a wave of anxiety as the proceedings helped me to realize exactly how much work I have to do while I am here! In all, the seminar was fantastic! I met some of the most important people working on transitional justice in the region, and realized that 6 months may not be enough time for me here!

Although inspiring, the seminar was somewhat exhausting! However, after a short rest, I rallied and my guests and I went for a meal at a local Cevepci place, (Cevapci is a regional specialty consisting of small fat sausages on bread eaten with onions and a fatty milk product that looks like cottage cheese called kajmak) and then went to a really cool bar that featured belly dancers and apple hookah-pipes. It was great! Really fun and really unique, with vaguely Arabic sounding electronic music and a cool mix of attractive but not too plastic local folks drinking and smoking and watching the dancers). After this I was totally drained and went home to sleep while my guests continued to another place called Scandal.

When I woke on Sunday I felt in an utter panic. I decided that I would stay in the apartment and work all day while my guests did tourist stuff and would meet them in the evening. So after a full and productive day, I met my guests in the evening whereupon we first went to the very well known PLATO café. From there we met up with a Serbian friend of my guests who took us first to a old “Turkish” café for drinks. The place is named “?” – question mark – or “Pitanje” in Serbian.

As we left “?” to find a bite to eat, we happened upon a Serbian film crew making a movie which appeared vaguely anti American. There was a character dressed as Uncle Sam on huge stilts, while another character held an American flag dangerously close to a large open flame all against a backdrop reminiscent of Les Miserable. I stopped to take a few photos, but was quickly ushered on by my cohorts. After that we went to a really cool bar called “KGB” which featured an extremely attractive waitress (that looked like Shakira) and Soviet era posters on the walls as art. Here I felt really comfortable, as the people inside looked cool and relaxed and did not stare at us at all! We had a few drinks and chatted a bit, and eventually headed back to my place for much needed sleep.

My guests left Monday – which began another stretch of grey weather, which is OK given the 5 days of gorgeous weather that preceded it - and I worked here in the apartment for the day and went to bed very early to be able to make the most

In all, I felt as if the weekend and the preceding week were fantastic! While there were still some trying moments, I got a lot of work done, am re-energized in terms of my purpose here, and was able to taste the more fun and interesting side of Belgrade. I am not sure what the next week will bring, but I hope to get lots more work done and to perhaps see some more of the nightlife…but we will see.

So thanks for reading and enjoy the photos I have posted. More Serbian adventures to come…



Vjeran and Serbian friend Vladan in KGB


Weekend guests Vjeran & Julie pose in front of poster of Che in town center


Serbian film crew making some kind of potentially anti-American film - note Uncle Sam and flag near flame!


Tuesday, February 3, 2009

An addendum to today's earlier post...

As an addendum to my previous post, I thought I would share a few things I especially enjoy about being here.

A few delightful things about Serbia….

1st – Burek! This is a sort of flaky meat pie (like spanikopita) that you can eat as a very filling breakfast or lunch. It is made fresh at the bakeries each day and it is best with a local plain yogurt poured on top. It is not a low fat food to be sure, but I am allowing myself one indulgence of burek each week!

2nd – Walking! I walk everywhere and I love it! I live at a geographically low point in the city, which is made up of rolling hills, so anywhere I walk is uphill. My jeans are already too big, which is awesome considering the 30 pounds I have packed on in the last year or so in the USA. As the weather gets warmer I will walk even more and will try a few times a week to rent a bike for the very long bike path that runs next to the river. I will also try to do the “100 push-up challenge” my cousin recommended…so I am hoping that, while there is no way I will get back to triathlon shape, while I am here, I will get back in some sort of shape and will drop some of those pesky pounds so that the huge ass will stop following me everywhere!!

3rd – Café culture! No matter the weather, and even more so when the weather is nice, the streets here are always packed with people after work and in the evenings. No matter what age, after work people walk on the pedestrian streets and stop for long chats and coffees in the cafes. You get your coffee and drink it slowly, talking about your day and watching the people walk by.

4th – “Turkish” coffee! I love this stuff! It goes by many regional names depending on where you are…Greek coffee, Bosnian coffee, Turkish coffee…but it all amounts to the same thing. An espresso sized cup with about 3 inches of thick black coffee. At the bottom of the cup sits the grounds, muddy and black. It is so strong and delicious! For me it is quite a treat!

The funny thing to me is that in the fancier cafes here they would never serve it because, to the local people, it is often thought of as old fashioned and out of vogue. People would rather have an Italian style espresso or cappuccino or a starbucks style latte. But for me the Turkish coffee is a special treat that I cannot get at home and I have them here as often as possible.

5th – Taking time to enjoy life! When you go out to a café or out to dinner, the time you are spending there is to be relished. You sip your coffee, wine, or beer and make each one last an hour.

If out to dinner, you order slowly. While eating, you put down your fork between each bite, talk to the person you are with, and make the meal last for hours. The meal IS the event, not something you do in a hurry before getting on to the event. The waiter/waitress does not come over to you (except maybe once to see if you want another drink after your meal is served) unless you signal to him/her. And they would NEVER come and bring you your bill without you asking for it.

When I first get to Europe each time, I often forget that this is common practice and can find myself rushing through my meal and frustrated that the server is not more attentive. Yet, I soon fall into the rhythm and enjoy the idea of savoring both the meal and the company I am with – so much so that when I get back to the US, I feel rushed by the servers and find their constant attention overbearing and intrusive.

6th – Encouragement! OK, so I have mentioned that my language skills are not great. I know some stuff, and I have an OK vocabulary, but I have forgotten many of my words due to lack of practice, and while I am usually pretty good at expressing myself in English, I lose all confidence in Serbian and say “um” and “oh...forget it” a lot when I am speaking in Serbian. However, one thing I have LOVED in the last couple weeks is the encouragement I often get from local people when I speak in Serbian.

Now, sometimes a person to whom I am speaking will say “It is OK if you want to speak in English.” (Which is kind, and I’m sure is meant to make things easier for me as well as to give the person a chance to practice their English). But what I really have enjoyed is the way that many people will say “WOW your Serbian is very good!” Even though I know it is NOT very good! People seem impressed that I am making the effort, and I have been mistaken once for a Greek, a few times for an Italian, and several times for a Pole (which I have been told is because of my accent in Serbian). I am thrilled when people say my accent is good, and when they are not immediately certain that I am a native English speaker. While they certainly can tell I am not a native Serbian speaker, I feel excited and encouraged when they think I am Polish because at least that is a Slavic language!

This encouragement makes me want to speak more, and more importantly allows me to relax a little so I can listen better. I am finding that instead of trying to translate every word that is being said, I am getting better at relaxing my ears and trying to take in the message as a whole. Still, because I can say quite a few things, people sometimes think I am better understanding this language than I actually am, and then they start talking way too fast (which is better than not talking to me at all I suppose). But, I sometimes catch myself getting stuck on a word I do not know and then I have lost the rest of whatever is being said to me. I then usually respond by saying "Again please" or "slower please" but if someone repeats several times I start to feel stupid, and in those cases it is totally possible that I have said "yes" to totally inappropriate or incorrect things just to end the immediate humilation! To help with this, I have been listening to the news in Serbian to get used to the rhythm and speed of the language.

Further, I must say that an hour of Serbian conversation still leaves me exhausted because I need to really focus on every word being said - both to me and by me - but maybe this will help me become a better listener in general in my life.

While there are still many awkward interactions (like trying to order ¼ kilogram of sliced meat when I can only remember how to say ½ - so I say ½ of ½ and they look confused…or trying to figure out what I have done to incur the wrath of the shouting check-out lady at the grocery store while the people in the line behind me roll their eyes indignantly – I cannot tell if their eye-rolling is in support of me or the check-out woman) the largely encouraging responses have really boosted my confidence.

One of the most difficult things has been catching what people say to me off-handedly in unprepared conversation – like on the street or in the hallway or at the store. The reason for this, I gather, is that I am trained to hear/comprehend in English, and I have to consciously attend to a message in Serbian. When someone says something to me offhandedly, it takes me a minute to switch, and I often do not “hear” them right away. About a minute later it dawns on me that they are speaking to me, and what it is that they are saying. I think this will get better with time, as I gain more confidence and put myself in more “spontaneous” conversation situations.

One of the best language experiences (though not really a positive interaction) has been with a neighbor. Now I had previously mentioned the fact that I am waking at ungodly hours of the morning because I have not yet adjusted to the time change. When I wake I have coffee and cereal, and then clean-up my flat before taking my shower. I live on the top floor here, so I am not all together clear on how the sound may carry from my flat, but since I have rarely heard neighbors, I assumed that all was well.

Well…while I usually intentionally try to leave my apartment when I know that no one else is waiting for the elevator (to avoid the terror of unprepared Serbian conversation) as I came into the building on Sunday I found myself in the elevator with one of my neighbors – a woman about 50 yrs old.

She first asked me if I lived in the building. I told her I am new here and I live on the 6th floor.

“Oh!” she said rather ominously “6th floor! You are very noisy!”

I was shocked! I have only had guests twice and each for less than ½ hour! I go to bed super early, do not watch TV, and turn off my music very early.

“I am sorry, very strongly sorry! I did not know.” I said to her in Serbian “Is it my shoes?”

“Yes” she said “It is your shoes, but more often it is the doors. I hear you closing the doors and windows at all hours!”

“Are you sure this sound is me?” I asked “I go to bed quite early and I no had guests.”

“Yes! It is you. I hear you at 4am, 5am, 6am – up all hours making noise!”

“I am strongly sorry!” I said “I do not know that my loud sound is a problem. My sleeping is still not normal because I have jet lag. I will try hard to be more quiet. And please if you have a problems with my loud sound, please come to my door and have conversation with me. I want to be a good comrade [though I meant to say neighbor]. I am strongly sorry!”

She then smiled at me and her tone changed. “You are a Greek girl, yes?”

“No ma’am. I am from Philadelphia – USA.”

“Oh…USA…well your Serbian is very good. How do you learn Serbian in USA?”

“I have studied with teachers from Serbia and Bosnia who live in USA.”

“And what are you doing here in Belgrade?”

“I am professor of students at the Faculty of Political Sciences.”

“You are not a politician are you? We do not like your George Bush. But congratulations for Obama. We like him very much.”

“No ma’am I am not a politician. I only teach students about political things. And thank you. I also like Obama very much.”

“Well…OK ‘Miss America.’ [said in English] Enjoy Belgrade.”

“Thank you ma’am and again I am strongly sorry for my own loud sound. I will try hard to be better quiet.”

“yes. You should wear softer shoes - slippers.”

OK, so not exactly the best first interaction with neighbors, but at least I was able to speak and understand! I felt ashamed that I had been too loud, and doubly so because people think of Americans as generally very loud and unaware of how loud we are – so I am always trying to overcompensate as if I have to show them that we are capable of being quiet…but even by American standards I am very loud, so this is not an easy task for me!

Anyhow…I will sign off now. Just wanted to share some of the more positive things I am enjoying here in Belgrade. Until next time…

Xina

More rambling observations from Belgrade...

Well well well…I am moving into my 3rd week here in Serbia and I guess I am adjusting. I can’t believe I have only been here for 2 weeks! It seems so much longer b/c every day there is so much to do and everything is kind of complicated! But I am getting used to things. The weather is still cold and gloomy most days, but I am looking forward to better weather and taking advantage of the poor weather to get lots of work done.

So…since my last post…my initial wounds are healing and I am finding things with much more ease. I am also speaking increasing amounts of Serbian language each day, and am feeling less insecure each day. I am still uncomfortably conspicuous, but that is fine. I am resigned to the fact that I am foreign and that is not going to change. I am still oddly exhausted when I get home from a day of work, and I have been going to bed by 10pm each night and waking at like 5am! I hope that the early waking continues b/c I have been able to get a lot done and have not been late for anything (for once in my life! – yes that is one thing I definitely have in common with the local culture…a loose conception of time!)

But while things are really generally going very well, I guess I am a little bit homesick, but not because I want to come home. I am happy to be here and excited that things have been very busy. But there are times when I miss the familiarity of home. I don’t miss being at home in my apartment, because I really needed to get away and focus on my scholarly writing. I don’t miss American food or my car or TV because I needed a break from those things as well. I miss having good friends and family close by, but with facebook and skype, I talk to people every day, and so I am fine in this department as well. Oddly enough, it is my beloved cat that I miss!

When I get home from work each day, and I settle in for the night, I miss Monkey. I miss snuggling with her when I lie down, I miss her little voice, and the way she smells…it’s so weird! At the lowest point this last week I started to feel guilty for leaving her because I kept thinking that she feels abandoned and that she cannot understand why I am not there. Yes…I know she is just a cat…but she is my constant companion! Before I had her, I had never owned a cat, having grown up with dogs, and now that she has been my cat for 5 or 6 years, through 5 states and 5 apartments - I am totally enamored with her! She comes when I call her name, she talks constantly (something we have in common), she sleeps under the covers with me, she doesn’t care if I haven’t showered, she sits with me when I cry, she shows off for all of my friends, she even flirts with all boys! In short…she is my little friend!

So more than a few times in the short time that I have been here, I keep thinking I see her out of the corner of my eye, but it turns out to be a pillow or something. I have even considered taking a stray while I am here (there are enough of them) but what would I do when I leave? Just turn the stray back out on the street? Anyhow, I will survive the Monkey home-sickness, to be sure. It just strikes me as funny that of all the things and people I have left behind, it is the cat that I miss! So silly!!!

Some highlights of the past week…I have received a grant from the US embassy to attend a conference in Skopje, Macedonia in March! I am super excited to go as I will be there for 5 days or so and will get to see some friends that I have not seen in a while. I also love these regional conferences b/c you really get to meet some great people.

I also found out yesterday that a Croatian-American friend will be in Belgrade over this coming weekend for a local conference, and will stay at my place. This should be great b/c it will be fun to be able to host and hang out.

Also in the last week I have been doing tons of work. While I have been doing my own work, of course, I have also put in a few long days working for a USAid scholarship program which is helping to select 24 Serbian students to study abroad at US universities for a year. For the last week we have been interviewing these students.

There are 2 committees doing the interviews. My group consists of a Serbian English language professor, a Serbian woman who is the cultural affairs officer for the US embassy here and myself. There are a total of 200 students being interviewed, with my group interviewing somewhere around 100 students (from which we can only choose 12!!) and the other group interviewing the other 100 or so. We meet with the other committee on Friday to choose the finalists. It has been really great, but so hard to choose.

There have been some very interesting students and I have really enjoyed talking to them. Some are so enthusiastic about the opportunity, and being somewhat insecure about my own foreign language abilities, I really feel for them as they all have to interview in English, and some are really nervous. In general, most have excellent English, but it is clear that many have not practiced with native speakers.

It has been interesting to see what these young people imagine the US to be like. Many think that US students are very serious in their studies. (Which while somewhat true, does not resonate with the several students in every class I teach who feel no shame in saying out loud to me in class “Umm…I don’t really like to read or write so I mean is this class…like…going to be hard or anything?” To which I often want to say “You know, I’m pretty sure Burger King is hiring right now and you don’t have to read or write to drop fries! And think of the money you will save!” or “I am not sure why I got a ‘C’ on this assignment! I took this class [or this major] because it was supposed to be easy!” To which I would like to say “I am sorry, but I do not have a PhD in easy!”)

Some interviewees think that Americans hate Serbs and that we think very negative things about Serbia. (Which makes me feel a bit bad given that many people I know thought I was going to Syria or Siberia, while some have said things like “Serbia!?! Wait, did that used to be called something else?” or “Isn’t that like in Africa or something?” or even “Serbia, whoa! Wait…are the roads paved there? Do they have like indoor toilets?”)

While several interviewees told us that they already knew everything about America because they watch American movies about high school and have seen a lot of MTV. (Whoa! Are they in for a shock!)

One very odd interview was with a male student who spoke as if he had learned English from Chaucer or something. He used a painfully proper style, with a grave tone and words that most native English speakers would have to use a dictionary to understand. The oddest part of this interview was when we asked him what he thought some of the differences between US and Serbian universities might be, to which he said “Serbian university professors exercise an insipid style of instruction the absurdity of which inhibits the erudition of his or her pupils.”

Hmmm…considering that there is a Serbian university professor on the interview committee, I am not certain that this was such a good choice, not to mention the fact that his language choices throughout the interview painted a mental picture for me…this guy gets placed in a small town somewhere where most people do not even know where Serbia is. He pontificates loudly and gravely to his fellow students in the dorm who within a week or so are punching him every time they walk by him.

One really cool thing has been interviewing so many female students who are studying various sciences, math, engineering, etc. One very memorable interview was with a girl in mechanical engineering whose enthusiasm for motors made me want to go build an engine! Another was with a girl who is studying English literature. While many of the English language & lit students were somewhat dull, this woman gave a spontaneous analysis of Toni Morrison in her interview and then expressed contagious enthusiasm about the opportunity to take Women’s Studies courses in the US.

Through this process I also have been reminded of some less-globally-admired aspects of US culture that seem so “natural” to us. The most difficult to swallow was the realization that other cultures find it somewhat distasteful that we Americans are somewhat shameless self-promoters – always selling ourselves. Now I attribute this to the fact that we are a competitive, individualist, capitalist country wherein you are a commodity that must be sold, and you are your own PR/Advertising agent. Yet, this still did not help the sting of realization that other cultures do not like this about us. How did I come by this realization?

Well…we were interviewing a student yesterday who said in both his written essay and in his interview that he is a person who is not very secure in himself. Now, as an American, my first thought was “If you don’t want to sell yourself, why should I buy?” In the course of the interview we ask the students to talk about a quality about themselves that they thing is their strongest. When we asked this student this question he said “It is not for me to say what is best about me. I cannot think of what is good about myself. It is better that I tell you what I need to work on.” I was shocked and frustrated that he was, in my eyes, “self-destructing” in the interview and I said to him “We don’t know you. This is your chance to tell us why you are better suited than others for this opportunity. You need to sell us your ‘brand.’ Make us want to buy what you are selling.” He was flustered and I felt a bit guilty.

After that interview, the 2 Serbian women on the panel said they liked him b/c he was humble. I was shocked and said that he seemed insecure and needy (and that I had wanted to hit myself over the head with a shoe for much of the interview). They laughed and said that this is a very American way to view this guy’s answers. They said that while he had clearly not done his homework with regard to what might impress an American panel, that it is a very American thing to talk about your achievements and strong points. They said that it is much more Serbian to act as if you are no better than anyone else (which may be a socialist cultural value, or may just speak to the fact that Americans are so indoctrinated in the consumerist mentality that everything is a constant commodity exchange).

I was embarrassed. I thought about all the times since I have been here that I talked to people about things I have done in an effort to appear credible and worthy, and was embarrassed that I must’ve come off as an arrogant braggart! One of the women then pointed out to me that British people tend to be much more humble than Americans and are masters of self-deprecation. I agreed that this was the case, but pointed out that when British people “self-deprecate” it is most often done with a joke, and an not out-right demonstrative performance of insecurity as we had seen in this student.

Now I am totally in love with the British clever self-deprecating humor, and truly appreciate humbleness in a person. I try at all points to make others feel appreciated and valued in conversation. And I am aware that the fact that I have a PhD can make some others feel intimidated, and so I do make every effort in casual conversation to NOT talk about my accomplishments, etc. However, when in conversation with professional peers or superiors, I am not shy to bring up things that may allow me to seem more credible, given that my effervescent personality and proclivity toward chattiness (and chattiness often ingrained with pop-culture nonsense) can allow people to see me as less intellectually credible than I am. But it had not occurred to me that I may be coming off as a jerk.

So…I guess while I am embarrassed that it had not occurred to me sooner, I am truly thankful that this was called to my attention early on in my stay here instead of much later when the clueless tornado-like self-promotion efforts may have caused more damage!

Another good thing to have come from this epiphany has to do with an idea that my colleague Eric and I have been kicking around. Now, in their street style, the people here are very well dressed. There is a total lack of obese people and even overweight people are a rare sight. No one wears track suits and running shoes or even army pants (though I suspect that “cammo fashion” may be something reserved for countries not so freshly removed from actual war.)

The women here are very attractive, and often wear tight jeans or short skirts with dangerously high-heeled boots (worn over the jeans) and tight tops that reveal buxom figures exaggerated by their thin, tall bodies. This is complemented by heavy eye-liner, ironed hair - dyed black or blonde -, and in the most extreme cases, brightly painted nails and distractingly “blingy” jewelry. The men wear nicely fitted jeans, name-brand (logo apparent) tops (fitted to show muscular physiques if applicable), cool sneakers or shoes (all of which appear brand new), well styled/overly gelled hair, and some kind of “blingy” watch and/or bracelet and/or necklace.

All of this is fine (even pleasurable eye-candy for us outsiders) for the street, cafes, clubs, shopping, going to class, and even jobs at trendy shops and cafes. [And is a refreshing contrast to most US college campuses where most men wear a uniform of baggy jeans or khakis (from Gap or Old Navy), a baseball cap, and some kind of fraternity t-shirt or un-tucked, wrinkled button-down oxford. While girls often wear track-suit bottoms with some kind of words on the butt (like “juicy”) or cotton micro-minis with sorority t-shirts or plain fitted t’s with mini ½ length hoodie sweatshirts over top.] However, I was surprised to see that the students who came for the interviews did not bother to dress professionally in the least. The same style that they would wear out in the evening or to class was their choice for the interview as well.

Now I should point out that all the Serbian women who work in the office where the interviews were taking place were dressed very sharp and professionally…so there must be a point at which people do “cross-over.” Yet, even though American students tend to dress a bit sloppy for day-to-day activities, they all know to dress professionally for interviews.

So…with the lack of self promotion that was evident in the aforementioned interviewee, in conjunction with the sometimes ill considered, sometimes borderline inappropriate clothing choices we saw in the interviews, and with my own experience in Hungary where I worked for a company that ran English language public speaking and negotiation seminars for non-native English speakers, the idea has come about that it may be useful to offer a few professional development/preparation seminars for the local students who DO wish to work for international organizations at some point. It might be fun and worthwhile to hold a “dress for success” seminar, an “interviewing to put your best self forward” seminar and maybe a “public and professional presentation” seminar.

Anyhow, I am still thinking through it, but there is a place here called the American Corner where they have speakers and seminars for people. As I was discussing my idea with the other women on the interview panel they thought it may be a good idea to offer these seminars through the American Corner, and I am happy with that.

OK – well I will sign off for now. Thanks for reading and I will post more adventures in the next week.

Xina